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The history of the Hallacas touches base as the oldest food tradition in Venezuela. Indeed, is the most popular Christmas dish served during the holidays. Its name is pronounced “ah-ya-ka” and it is still prepared in a similar fashion to the colonial times; however with some modern refinements and personal touches. Hallacas is also the most representative icons of Venezuelan multicultural heritage, as its preparation includes European ingredients such as raisins, nuts, olives, among others. Indigenous ingredients like corn meal and annatto seeds, and African ingredients like plantain leaves used for wrapping.
History of the Hallacas, although there are many different tails about its origins, the most popular one states that it was created by the slaves back in colonial times. During those days the slaves used to put the leftovers of their master’s Christmas festivities in a bit of cornmeal dough, then they would wrap them with banana leaves and boil them to blend the flavors.
As many things in Venezuela, Hallacas have the influence of three cultures. The white Hispanic, the Indian, and the African. The most popular version calls for a stew with pork, chicken and beef. In the Andean region they like to add boiled eggs into the mix. And like that every region has its own different way of making it to give it their personal signature, as well as families. This is also the reason why they say: “No Hallaca tastes like another”. Normally they acquire a better taste once it has cooled down and settled in the fridge for at least one day. Hallacas are very laborious to make. Depending on the quantity they require hours and even days to make. Usually a group of people is needed, sometimes the whole family joins the action. Its preparation requires organization and dedication and it constitutes a celebration by itself. Holiday music and carols are heard during the making. Holiday drinks such as Egg Nog mix up with rum (of course) make up the festive atmosphere.
The history of the Hallacas travels back to the years of the revolution of independence. Each Christmas eve the wealthy families prepare huge banquets with a selected variety of meats and stews. The next day the slaves who poked around, would collect the leftovers and wrapped them in corn dough and the covered them with banana leaves winding up straight into big pots boiling on wood. Some say that from this process, has evolved the recipe that has survived for centuries. And until today it still survives. Is the recipe of popular Hallacas.
The history of the Hallacas is also related to another big tail which states that it came from the efforts taken by the Spanish to “improve” the Tamales, including pre-Columbian dishes, expanding the ingredients that made up the filling. Such efforts represented an adaptation to the palate of the European colonial Spanish America. Another account of the legends affirms that when they were building the “The Spanish Camino,” a mountain road that connected the port of La Guaira with Caracas the Indians who inhabited these roads ate some muffins or tamales made out of pure corn. These muffins produced a disease caused by vitamin deficiency called pellagra, which contaminated the population. Therefore, Caracas families were asked to donate their leftover food to help fill the Indians buns as did their slaves and servants.
Fabled Story by Francisco Herrera Luque.
Francisco Herrera Luque, considered the creator of the modern Venezuelan historical literature, whose works have been widely disseminated within and outside the borders of the country, introduces in his book The Fabled Story, a funny theory about the history of the Hallacas. In the story, the author argues that there is an old legend that points to Caracas Don Sancho de Alquiza, also called Sanchorquiz, as the inventor of the Venezuelan dish. According to the story presented by Herrera Luque, before having its origin in abundance Hallacas were born of sadness and hunger. This character, says the Venezuelan novelist, arrived in the country in 1606 and was governor for 5 years. During his tenure, the old road of the Navy, which cuts through the “Cerro El Ávila” to the nearby port of La Guaira, was tiled, and as expected, the hard work of extracting the stone from the mountains and put it on the road was assigned to the Indians who survived Lozada. However, during the process of improvement of the road, the Indians who worked there started, dying en masse, “died like flies,” says the author. This issue captured the attention of the governor Alquiza Sancho, who worried intends to investigate the reason for such high mortality numbers. Upon arrival, the governor was surprised to observe the state of malnutrition in which these men were, ensuring that it was impossible that being in such conditions they could had been successfully resisted the attacks of conquistador Lozada. The reason for this state was how these men were fed, under the intense and constant work they received daily. It was a corn paste, without salt, wrapped in banana leaves so that it could be heated without being spilled. Observing this, the governor decided that henceforth would collect half of leftovers of all households, allocating the other half for the pigs. However, the citizens of that time valued more a fat pig than a healthy Indian, so the animals had the best part. This happened just weeks before Christmas right when an epidemic dysentery was unleashed, which killed more poor Indians than the bad nutrition they had before applying the bright idea of Sanchorquiz governor. Don Sancho, observing the situation that had occurred, met with the Bishop, who surprised ensures that such actions could not go unpunished, he imposed penance, such consisted that during the whole month of December people shall eat “mazacote” leftovers corn hash, wrapped in the miserable banana leaf that had concealed the disgrace. And Caracas met, however, they say that who makes the law also makes the trap. Century after century, people paid their fault, but the innocent bishop did not specify the source or quality of the mince, which at first was crap, but it was not so for the penitents, who made their well minced ham, good legs of chicken, olives, bacon and even leftovers wine they found there.
Hallaca descendant of tamale?
“We accept without further questioning that—The Hallaca—our hearty national dish, derived from the Mexican tamale, finding in it even clear phonetic relationships or Aztec roots. Perhaps right are the ones who say such. But when I think of our robust hallaca, so filled with delicacies and thrived compared with Tamale, I think that to derive one from another is like saying that the Llama of the Bolivian highlands is the ancestor of the Camel.
And because such comparison in this writer’s opinion is ethnocentric, I went to investigate furthermore about the origins of the Tamales and its relationship with Hallacas. Therefore, I invite you to come and checkout my own research paper titled: Tamales a Multicultural Tradition of Hispanic America by Carlo C.
